Since I was writing this up for Todd any way, here’s a list of the paints I’m currently using:
Apple Barrel -these are super cheep craft paints from Michaels, they tend to be under 2 dollars, sometimes when they go on sale they can be less than $.50 a bottle.
pewter grey – medium neutral grey
Country grey – lighter slightly cool grey, good highlight to the above
white – thin, but then almost all whites are. good for highlights
sandstone – light slightly yellowy grey/brown nice for IG cloth or stucco on terrain takes about 2 good coats
Any of the neon colors. Mix a bit with white to make Eye bleeding chaos color schemes
Kings gold yellow with a bit of brown to it, I use as the intermediate step in painting gold highlights
English Ivy Green close to catachan greentakes about 2 coats. was used on basalisk bastian
Ceramcoat Another super cheep paint in the craft section Sort of a mixed bag in terms of quality
Passion – a sort of thin matte finish purple, 2 coats will usually do a nice job.
flesh tone – a good starting point for making skin tones, mix with soft body brown, or taupe, mix in white to do highlights
blue heaven I used this on some tau and demonettes, it ends up nice looking, but is extremely thin upwards of 5 coats needed in some places
Liquitex soft body $5-$10 depending on color, some need to be thinned a bit for minis use.
Mars Black – a good opaque black, needs to be thinned
light portrait pink – a light pink, I use it in some flesh mixes, and for scars
light blue violet – can be mixed with above pink to approximate tentacle pink, makes good tau flesh
bright aqua green – used on jewels/lenses and nids
taupe – FIND THIS PAINT! this is my go to base coat for golds, leather, and light skin absolutely opaque, thins nicely, do not use as a wash
burnt sienna – a basic brown, good for dark skin, and dark leathers, mixes nicely with flesh tone
burgundy – a great replacement for GW mechrite red
cadmium red medium – basic red, a bit translucent, but layers nicely above the burgundy
GW
Macherian solar orange – A must have if you plan anything with large parts of orange
mordian blue – good opaque dark bles are hard to come by, but this is one.
silver metals, mythril, gunmetal etc. No others I’ve found do decently opaque silvers.
reaper pro paint
Sunlight yellow – I am not thrilled with this, but I am yet to find a better yellow.
vallejo panzer aces – got as a convention sample, no idea of price.
Black- this is really miss named. it is opaque dark grey, and can be used in a wash or to highlight black armors
Stuff:
liquitex BLACK acrylic gesso – do not get white or grey, they clog details. I use this in place of spray primers since I have no place/time to spray
liquitex clear acrylic gesso – I use this to paint details over Rackham ppp minis
Acrylic gloss medium – use to clear coat over minis you want to be extremely shinny (I use for eyes and lenses mostly)
Acrylic matte medium – clear coat for matte finish, can mix wit the above to make more of a neutral finish
acrylic heavy gel medium – used for effects, fires, lighting etc.
acrylic medium with stucco/ sand – I have basing, these are brush on alternatives.
fluidifier/thinner for arcylics – I am out of this at the moment so I don’t know the exact name it is used to make washes more fluid, it takes a very long time to dry, and should absolutely never be allowed to mix with any of the clear coats. It must dry entirely before you continue working